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Rhode Island Food Culture: Dining, Drinking & Food Stuff

Seth Price

Sous Vide for the masses. Will you consider getting the new Sous Vide Supreme?

I was exposed to the details of Sous Vide cooking by Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson of Frasca in Boulder Co. He was making these amazing ice cream bases using his sous vide contraption, then using a paco jet for service. I started playing with sous vide after I purchased Michel Richard's "Happy Kitchen" My form of ghetto Sous Vide is not for the weak of heart, nor the health department inspector. When I read the the review of the Sous Vide Supreme in the New York Times I started to pine for a new toy. Anyone else playing with Sous Vide? Share your thoughts about Molecular Gastronomy

Tags: sous, vide

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Sous Vide is a hoot I have practiced it for 5 years until I got caught doing it in the class. Now It took 2 years and to my knowlwdge I have the only legal variance to practice Sous Vide in R.I. DOnt think even Ma. can do it in restaurants althought they do it as long as they dont get caught its a major voilation now we are doing cryogenic cooking as a fun thing. The best still goes on

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What kind of stuff are you cooking Sous Vide? Any favorites recipes?

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Hi Seth,

I have a load or recipes we have done from Foie Gras, Confits of all kinds, different vegeatbles, fish just about everything. I have thermo curculators but gave them up for Combi Ovens I spent 4 days in Wisconsin with Alto Shamm I can control the same temp for larger products

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What do you think of the Sous Vide Supreme. Check out the article in New York Times and let me know.

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Seth,

There is a major problem with sous vide unless your trained a bit because of vacuum packing the food espically raw fish. before I was given the variance license 3 phd chemists had to approve its use its the dam packing that does it people put it in plastic zip bags but the flavors wont work not I am doing the cryogeneic freeze cooking methods its been dont with duck but I am getting heavy into its use espically I have an anti griddle at school which chills to -30

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Seth,

First of all, I really like the new layout of the site and I'm glad to see some more conversations coming back. On the topic of sous-vide cookery I have a couple of comments. Although I'm not a huge proponent of so called "molecular gastronomy" I am very interested in cooking food with precise technique and finesse. That being said I believe that there are quite a few misconceptions about cooking sous-vide. One of the main points that they ever so briefly touched upon in the NYT article was the topic of an anaerobic atmosphere. Since sous-vide means "under vacuum" it seems odd to me that low temperature cooking in a bag is now called sous-vide. One of the main pluses of this cooking style, in my opinion, is the use of a commercial vacuum sealer that can create a vacuum with tremendous pressure. However, this is the same environment that produces nasty food-borne illness and is at the forefront of the controversy on the subject. There was an interesting article written by Amanda Hesser of the NYT about five years ago detailing her first experiences, at Per Se, with sous-vide cooking (or lack there of). Much of the food is simply compressed to force out excess water and air to make a dense, flavorful version of said ingredient (the famous compressed watermelon being the most ubiquitous these days). A lot of this is covered in Thomas Keller's "Under Pressure" which I'm sure you have read. You could also contact Bruno Goussalt (sp?) who was featured in the Amanda Hesser article, as he is known as the godfather of sous-vide and low temperature cooking in America.

As for low temperature cooking, I am a huge proponent but again I think many of the new techniques and much of the new equipment is misunderstood and to some degree misused. Often times the misuse can lead to time/temperature issues that lead to a food-borne illness and other times it is simply not knowing the appropriate occasion to use such a technique. It seems to me that many cooks these days will spend some time at a restaurant that uses new equipment almost exclusively and when they leave there has been no true education. It all goes back to fundamentals of cuisine. Braising in a traditional manner or making a custard base (for ice cream) by hand will teach cooks these basic elements that they can then, once mastered, put to good use with the aid of technological advances.

That's my two cents for now. I'm sure we could talk about this subject all day.

Cheers,
Nemo

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Nemo,

Thanks for the compliments. I am beginning to understand some of the limitations that may be present without a commercial vacuum to apply significant pressure. I agree with you that these tools/toys are only as good as ones understanding of food and cooking. My curiosity has been piqued and unless I find out something negative about the Supreme, I will most likely pull the trigger. I cook almost every night and have for the last 20 years with the exception of when I am at a friends home or restaurant. Because my audience mainly consists of my wife and children, I am always looking for culinary entertainment and tools to aid quality and consistency. You will have to come over when I get this thing. I you come accros any other cookbooks that reference sous vide, let me know. Best to you and your lovely bride. I imagine there is a little Bolin in the midst. Congrats.

SP

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Hello Frank

I sell wine now but I was born and raised on an Alto Shaam by my dad. i also took a week long cooking class by chef Herman Lies in Wisconsin or michigan who' at the time was Alto Shaams' exec chef. did you meet the same person. I forever owe my cooking skills to him.

Bob Goulet

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Hi Robert,

I didnt see anyone there by that name. Alto Shamm has 3 coporate chefsnone with that name. We went out there to see the new technology on Halo Heat and I am getting a kitchen at school with this equipment which blew me away you have no idea. But I do practice Sous Vide but as I said the Thermo unite were abandoned due to Combi ovens I have one lab Rational and One Alto Shamm you cant believe what these kids do using the Sous Vide Method Plus the Molecular Gastronomy is alive and kicking but in a safe non chemical way most I run in drinks which blow people away with hot Espumas on drinks its fun and crazy

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Seth,
did you get the new sous vide unit yet?/ Molecular is a blast its none of the Caviar stuff mostly Transglut and NZorbit and Maltodextrin's .Its not used all that much but when applied it can be fun to use.I use them mostly as Hot Espumas on chilled beverages But Sous Vide is being used in a lot of restaurants in R.I. as long as then dont get caught by the Dept of Health and can make certain foods espically fish excell. If you purchased one let me know how you like it. :0

Thanks

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About to order it. I will let you know when it arrives.

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